I hav a 1985 E-350 Ambulance, with a 460 It will start when cold but die's when it warms up. Back fires accasionaly and I have replaced the coil, cap and rotor, modulator. When it gets warmed up it only wants to start with the Advanced throttle switch in the on mode then it wont stay idleing when I shut it off. The vechle cools off then starts again but stops about 8 miles down the road. Any ideas?
Wiring schematic on 1984 Ford E-350 ambulance 460/7.5 engine Leece neville alternator
You didn't give me the model number of the alternator so it could be one of the two attached wiring diagrams.
Links below will take you to these diagrams.
Have your mechanic check the 6014R relay. This relay is case ground and sometimes corrosion between the mounting feet and the chassis get bad over time.
Hope this solves your problem.
Thanks for the info it's just what I needed.
No problem, glad to be able to help.
That was great that you sent him the diagram for the alternator. Do you by chance have one for the ignition system tha you could send? Would be greatly appreciated.
We don't have any information on Ford's wiring.
Where is the Collant temp sesor located on a Ford 460 engine ---- installed in a e-350 motorhome chassis
How does your question pertain to alternators or starter motors?
Am I missing something?
I wouldn't have a clue.
Maybe you need to talk to your local Ford garage.
I have a 1995 Ford E-350 with a 460 motor, I'm having problems with some sensor that turns the overdrive off. It makes the transmission "shift-shock" between second and third gear. I've had a tune up, I've replaced the transmission filter, I'm looking at replacing the arm on the steering column used to put it into gear... What else should I be looking at?
I don't have a clue.
Maybe you will need to contact your local Ford garage.
We only specialize in alternators and starters not vehicle transmissions.
I've got a 2003 VW Beetle (1.8ltr Turbo) and am looking to replace the alternator brushes(OEM alt). Can I purchase these directly from your business?. If not, can you point me to business where I can?
Thanks for all your help, in advance.
BTW, I'm local in the DFW area. (Euless)
We haven't made these in years and no longer make service parts.
My recommendation is the contact Alternator Service.
The link below will take you to their contact information.
I have a 95 E350 with a 460 cid, the alt has always made a noise when it first started chging . one day while driving i heard it start chging, i get home the belt was about 3/4 gone i put a new belt on it. It hasn't charged since that, i took it to a local alt shop it charges on the bench test. I have cked most command ground points and cleaned them , put new batt terminals on. Still won't chg. Any Ideas ?
I guess my first question is, what is the alternator model?
I have a 1984 F-700 truck with a 470 V-8 engine.
It was noted that the battery would drain to dead all of a sudden. I inspected the vehicle and noted that the BAT wire connection on the post on the alternator was loose. I torqued it conservatively and when reconnected battery neg there was a dead short. I disconnected the BAT wire on alt and it went away. I reconnected and it re- appeared. Removed alternator and I heard a loose debris in the alternator and occasionally it would jam the stator.
I was sure that the alternator was bad and I replaced it with a re-man from NAPA. Same circumstance.... when BAT post on alternator was connected there is a dead short. I opened the alternator and saw that the isolated by plastic bus bar attached the the windings would slightly touch the case of the alternator. I removed a little metal from the bus to attain an air gap and re-assembled/reinstalled. Same circumstance when connecting the battery. I unpluged the "electronic regulator" and the problem remains.
I convinced NAPA that the alternator was a defect and they replaced it with a third alternator.. it has the same circumstance.... now I am beginning to doubt my x-shoot skills and understanding of how it works.
On the bench, just me, the alternator and a battery.... should I have a dead short circumstance with the battery (+) connected to the BAT post on the alternator AND a solid ground connected from the alternator chassis to the battery (-) NEG ?
This is an motorcraft alternator with the additional FLD and STA disconnected..... or connected....
What is the chance I would see three defective alternators on the same day?
Thank you for your anticipated reply and wisdom...
I am not that familuar with this vehicle or alternator.
With the alternator on a test stand and just the battery connected you should not see any large current draw .
When you had the alternator mounted on the vehicle did you measured the amount of current the alternator was drawing?
If you measure around 5 to 7 amps this tells me that the voltage regulator is not turning off. This could lead to two problems, a defective voltage regulator or voltage going to the ignition terminal of the voltage regulator (if it has one) is not being removed when the key switch is turned off.
These are some things you can look into but you make have to take it to you local garage because it is unlikely that the problem is in the alternator.
Hope this helps.
I have a 1990 Ford E-350 ambulance with 7.3L diesel with Leece Neville Alternator and adjustable voltage regulator, the problem is I can adjust the voltage regulator to what I think is right and be driving and the Voltage will spike the meter to over 20 volts and may stay that way for several minutes then drop back to normal and then sometimes will not drop at all. I was thinking the regulator is bad am I correct in this thought.
problems with voltage out of steering column. Need the wiring colors and what they go to.
I have a 1984 E350 Ford ambulance. The alternator failed so I replaced it. It puts out 11.5 volts and 0 amps? The alternator doesn't have a built in voltage regulator and I can't seem to find it, does anyone know where it is located.
Can you tell us what model alternator you have installed now?
under the battery holder. you must take out the drivers head
light to get to it.
Hi, I am in need of a higher output alternator for my 1989 Ford Mustang, and have a time limit here... Broke down on the road... I am getting an alternator for my 1989 5.0 mustang from a NAPA autoparts tore. The alternator ttheyaregetting me is for a 1985 E250 Ford Van that i am trying to make work,the regulator part is correct however the difference lays in the plug in for the Battery and Sta terminals. The E250 had a regulator the same as my Mustang, but the Atlernator for the E250 differs in that the E250 alternaor had a Battery terminal post and one single male pin that requires a single wire going to it. My Mustang has a three pin connector on the alternator that shows a sta terminal and Battery terminals side by side plase help with how to connect the E250 alternator up to my Stang!!!
Check all of the wiring on top of the engine. My truck was acting like yours. I paid a mechanic $275 to rewire and wrap all of the the wires. Now it runs great.