Alternators

regulator voltage charging problem

Hello, i have a catamaran (two engine) with two alternators model: 8MR2035T / 110-244 and two regulators model:8RG2019 / 105-215. I have gel batteries and i know that i sould not charging over 14.00 volts. But i had a problem with a regulator and i had change it but now the new regulator charge a 14.5 volts on stboard side and the one on portside charge at 14.01. I realise there a different number on each. Stboard side have this num. 200606 and portside 9945? Do you know if i can adjust it? What i should do? Thank you

Marine Alternator part number for replacement

Looking for a replacement part number for a Prestolite alternator ALE 6207 Y-1B off a 1969 31' Chris Craft Commander with 327 engines.

Alternator for BUICK SKYLARK Limited Version 2.8 Liter engine

Welcome
I have the problem with voltage of my alternator, mounted in BUICK Skylark LE 2.8 Liter 6V of 1986.
The model of alternator is "Prestolite 9DR2LF2B58 (R can be not enough readable might be B or P) 9140 62A 12N date.
Its Voltage regulator has symbol 9RC2004, 9138 date.

The problem is that after a few dozen minutes driving when engine will be warmed up, its tense jumps on accumulator from 14 to 16 Volt.

Please kindly for information
-- What model of the alternator can be used instead?
-- What is the description / purpose of the four ends of colored wires coming into the joints.

Yours faithful
Tadeusz mailto: tjk-2@go2.pl

Alternator questions

Can you ID a L N alt. from the numbers cast in the rear case? Cast # A959079018. I am considering a 2500 series 160 amp. 2800JB replacement. I have a engine pulley of 6.25" dia. & the smallest alt. pulley I can find is 3.126" giving a ratio of 1.998. You recommend  a 3 to 1 ratio for a HD diesel. I could fab. a 1.92" dia. pulley but I think the 2 belts will slip. My normal engine cruise speed is 1650 rpm's this is low on the alt. performance curve. The 6.25 is the largest engine pulley I can install. My current alt. will let the batteries get low enough in 2 hours the engine will not restart. The elec. gauges start misreading. I have 4 new group 31 in a 12 v system, all new cables of 2-0000, new starter. This is not a OEM alt. or engine application. Could the old style regulator with the high kick in speed be part of the problem? Mine would not kick in until 1500 engine rpm's. Will it drop out or just give low performance at 1650 rpm's. I could speed up to 1800 rpm's and the gauges would start to work correctly. Is there a better choice for a replacement alternator maybe one with a lower performance curve rpm? I still need about 160 amps of 12 volts.

Thanks for any help! 

Craig C 

Alternator

I have a Leece Neville alternator. The normal ID plate is missing. The back case has the only numbers cast in it. They are A959079018. Is it possible to ID it by these numbers. It looks like a 2500 to 2800LC series from the online pictures.
I need to replace it and do not know what to ask for. It is not used in a OEM application. I am thinking about replacing it with a A001 2800JB.
Thanks for any help.
Craig C

8MR2070TA battery isolator wiring.

Hi - I just purchased a used boat, and I'm not sure the previous owner has something wired correctly.

The boat has an 8MR2070TA alternator with 8RG2043 regulator. It is being used in a one alternator, two battery setup. The alternator is wired to a battery isolator, Sure Power model 1202. It appears that this is a self-exciting alternator and there is no remote sense wire. The previous owner has the alternator positive output connected the center terminal of the isolator with a large (#0 or so) cable, and a second smaller gauge (10AWG or so) wire connecting the alternator positive output to the positive terminal of the starting battery.

My concerns:

1) Due to the internal resistance of the isolator, it seems most of the charging current would flow through the smaller gauge wire directly to the staring battery. Not only does this seem to risk overloading the smaller 10ga wire, but it seems that the secondary battery would not be charged at all with the set up as it is currently wired.

2) Since this is a self-exciting alternator, can I remove the 10ga wire, and just keep the cable from the alternator to the center terminal of the regulator?

3) If I can't do #2, is there a compatible Prestolite/Leese-Neville remote sensing regulator I can use to replace the 8RG2043?

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Thanks a lot for providing this support forum- great way to share technical info with your customers. I've learned a lot by browsing some of the past questions.

Dan

Leece Neville Alternator

Hello Daryl:

I have a Cat 3208 diesel with a Leece Neville model 150AL8A2115 alternator with 8RG2112 Sales 105-360 regulator. Can you provide a wiring diagram? Reason is that present Coach system is wired up to power alternator and regulator whenever main power switch is thrown on. This means power is being applied to alternator when any assessories such as light and fans etc, are being used without diesel running. Desire to make a simple switch circuit to turn off alternator so assessories can be used with diesel off and without risk to alternator.

chegment001@yahoo.com

Rich Johnson

Alternator charging problems

we have a SC Heavy Duty 110-258 (175Amps@5000RPM) alternator powered by a GARDNER 4LW Diesel engine. A short while ago it stopped charging the batteries and I cannot figure out why. All connections are sound, brushes are not worn - any suggestions anybody???? Unfortunately we have no wiring diagram for any of the electrical installations so tracing the cable-runs is a bit of a nightmare but possible

Thanks folks

3 Way Voltage Regulator

I have a Leece-Neville model A0012824JB alternator installed on an RV camper. It has been modified for compatibility with a DuVac electrical system. The regulator is labeled as a "3 way". What exactly is a "3 way" voltage regulator? Many thanks...

Repeat failure in 2824JB Alternator

I have Leece Neville alternator Service Part Number 2824JB, Model A001090772, date code 9508K in an American Dream motorhome model 1995. The rated output is 160 amps, 14 V. I bought this vehicle new. About 8 years ago I experienced an alternator failure, the unit was unable to keep the charge in the batteries. I managed to return home to Oregon by running the auxiliary engine charging the coach battery and using the boost switch to charge the chassis battery. I removed the alternator and the local Prestolite rep repaired the alternator, I believe they changed one rectifier.
Three days ago I was returning three days from the end of another trip and noticed that the battery voltage was low. All the batteries in this vehicle are quite new and well maintained. I managed to get back by driving in daylight, and the alternator was able to keep the battery at half charge. I removed the alternator when I arrived home. I still have not taken it to be checked, I have no means to check it running, but I have the instrumentation to read static values. The field winding (across the brushes) reads 2.3 ohms. The unit is modified to work with the Duvac System, and reading these posts I now understand a voltage surge that I had experienced in the past and nobody could explain to me. The voltage oscillated at a rate of about one cycle per second, especially noticeable at idle, which caused the headlights and instrument panel to dim slightly. I have not noticed this lately.
1) Are the phases of this alternator electrically accessible without teardown so that I can read the condition of the rectifier diodes?
2) Is the condition described above (low battery charge voltage) indicative of a loss of a phase or the regulator failure or change of setting?
3) I would like to increase the alternator amperage to about 200 or 220. Is there an drop in replacement for this model alternator that will allow me to do so?
Thanks from an old employee, I used to work as a design engineer for a common venture between Holley Carb and Prestolite back in the 60's.
Carlos Medica